Rowan Berries - The Essence of Foraging

These little beauties are abundant, and rich in flavour, folklore.

Jul 30, 2024

∙ Paid

My parents named me Max ‘Rowan’ Martin because I was born on the eve of Imbolc, the first day of Spring, and the Rowan is known as the ‘Tree of Imbolc’. The berries don’t start appearing until the middle of Summer, when this tree really comes to life and the branches are weighed down with the quantity of fruit. They can’t be eaten raw, but are a delicious, satisfying soul medicine in a number of wonderful recipes, ancient and new.

There’s nothing better than spotting a red berry on the bush and knowing that you can take it home and eat it. It feels so primal, something that not just our human ancestors, but our animal ancestors have been doing for countless generations. They’re visible from miles away, clumped together in huge, bright red or orange bunches nestled between feathered frills of dainty leaves. So inviting. But for those that don’t know, the red berry is also a sign of danger, a luring temptation, a risk of death, a symbol of the unknown. I used to see them as kid in the swimming pool car park, and was so intrigued even before I realised my connection with them. Are they really poisonous? How are there so many of them on one tree? Why have the birds not eaten them all, are they poisonous to animals?

When I started my adult foraging journey a few years ago, it was only natural then that rowan berries were one of the first I investigated. The parascorbic acid in them means they are very sour and not good to eat raw, but cooking them with some sweetness breaks down the acidity and brings out the rich, juicy flavour. Imagine somewhere between a cranberry and a strawberry, and think about all the ways you can use those flavours. They are so abundant that you can make almost limitless stocks of rowan berry jelly, rowan berry syrup, cakes, soups and many other delicious recipes - some ideas are included at the bottom!

Identification

Rowan berries can be identified through several key features. Firstly the leaves contain multiple small leaflets, symmetrically opposite each other (pinnate) and have serrated edges. The berries are small (around 7mm diameter) and usually red or orange. They look similar to hawthorn berries but the leaves are very different. and The leaves look similar to ash and elder, but the elderberries also look very different and the ash trees don’t produce berries! As always, use several sources when identifying a edible plant and make sure you are 100% sure.

Folklore

Rowan’s are seen as trees of protection in many cultures. Each berry has a five pointed star at the base, and in pagan traditions this was seen as a symbol of humanity and protection, particularly against witches and enchantment. People would use the branches, berries and even flowers to protect themselves, or even their cows!

The rowan’s protective reputation is woven into many traditions. In Norse mythology it’s bendy but strong boughs saved the god Thor from being washed away by a river and in Scotland and Ireland where rowan trees were planted near homes for protection, and crosses made from rowan twigs were worn or hung in homes to ward off evil. The vibrant red berries were thought to enhance its magical properties, and when you pick them they do have a mesmerising colour. Rowan wood was used in crafting tools and divining rods, and its berries were made into wines, spirits, and jellies, adding to its rich cultural heritage.

Recipes and Ideas

Below I have included my recipe for a rowan berry jelly and rowan berry syrup, two simple and effective ways of turning this sharp fruit into something delicious.

Rowan Berry Syrup

Ingredients:

• 1 kg ripe rowan berries

• 450g sugar

• 2 tsp salt

• 3 liters of water

1. Prepare the Berries:

• Sort through the rowan berries, removing any sticks or spoiled berries.

• Roughly chop the berries.

2. First Boil:

• Place the berries in a large saucepan.

• Add enough water to cover the berries by 2-3 cm (approximately 2 liters of water per 1 kg of fruit).

• Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes.

• Remove from heat and mash the berries with a potato masher to release the juice.

• Let it cool for about 15 minutes.

3. Strain the Juice:

• Strain the mixture through a jelly bag or muslin cloth to extract the juice.

• Put the strained berries back in the pan and add 1 more liter of water.

• Repeat the boiling and straining process.

4. Make the Syrup:

• For each litre of juice obtained, add 300g of sugar and 2 tsp of salt.

• Pour the juice, sugar, and salt into a pot.

• Heat and stir until the sugar dissolves.

• Bring to a boil and continue boiling for 5 minutes.

5. Bottle the Syrup:

• Pour the hot syrup into sterilised bottles.

• Cap the bottles and let them cool.

• Store in a cool, dark place for up to a year.Rowan Berry Syrup